Following the 30-hour train ride from Hong Kong to Beijing during which we ate nothing but ramen, peanut butter, a gray-shoe-stew in the dining car, and the bananas I had the audacity and stupidity to smuggle in, it took little discussion to plan gorging ourselves on the city’s most famous dish, Peking Duck (actually, Beijing Duck; actually, Beijing Kao Ya).
Showered (well, wet then dry, soap that lathers not being an amenity) my friend Chris and I went down to the lobby of the Beijing International Hotel in search of a concierge and a recommendation for a good, nearby duck house. We did eventually find a woman willing to uh, stare at us while we attempted communication; service, we would come to realize, is not a strong point in China’s service industries.
The woman took my travel book and its list of food symbols to a group of hotel employees. They were fascinated. Force was necessary to reclaim my guide and we were still no closer to a dinner destination. If the train was a bad dream, this attempted conversation was the rude awakening. China is not Hong Kong. Chris was losing whatever little faith in me remained. I had to make a decision.
“Let’s just go,” I said. “It’s a city. We’ll find something outside.”
Despite fear of what that something might be, hunger propelled him to follow me into the hot Beijing night. Since the front of the hotel was a massive intimidating thoroughfare, we walked around to the back into a massive intimidating construction project.
“Hong Kong or Tokyo if anything happens,” I said as a reminder of my health/injury travel requirements, “or Germany.”
“Germany’s not really close," he said.
“I am not going to a Chinese hospital, not even an herbal one,” I said.
“Then watch out for those nails.”
On the other side of the scaffolding we faced a row of two and three-story houses. One looked vaguely like a restaurant. We stood for a moment, contemplating until we acknowledged an appealing aroma flooding the alley. It was a sign. We followed our noses, something not always positive in that part of the world, and entered the crowded dining room. A hostess escorted us upstairs where we sat at a folding table next to a family of six. They were eating duck. We were suddenly giddy.
We pointed to the neighboring duck and the symbol for “green vegetable” in my book. Then we waited. While we’re waiting I should mention that “green vegetable” could mean any of an assortment of green vegetables from Chinese broccoli to mustard greens to various sprouts and choys (bok choy, by the way, is white vegetable). As long as you like vegetables and salt, you’ll be happy with whatever the day or restaurant may bring. This night “green vegetable” was something like watercress with a squirt of a sticky brown bean sauce. It was fantastic, as was the duck.
We were so wired from our successful dinner (or maybe excessive tea) that even our travel fatigue could not stop us from watching all 97 minutes of Jackie Chan and Chris Tucker working together across cultural divides to solve the mystery of a kidnapping. East and west, together forever, like duck in a pancake in a tummy...
come back later for Part 2